Cycled Volarje to Gorizia (Italy)
Train Gorizia to Trieste
Cycled Trieste to Fernetti
25th May 2008
In the morning we passed through a few more nice small towns before reaching Nova Gorica. Kanal in particular was memorable as it was Sunday and it seemed the whole town was walking the streets on their way home from church. Just before Nova Gorica was the largest stone arch train bridge in the world, which was very impressive.
We planned to finish up our trip in Slovenia quickly and move on to Croatia, so the plan was to take a train to Divača to see the Škocjan caves. However there was only one train from Nova Gorica and it was in the evening. About 10 metres from the train station was the Italian border, and a couple of kilometres from there was Gorizia train station, so instead we caught the train from Gorizia to Trieste.
This was easy enough, but getting out of Trieste proved quite difficult. We had no maps and people we asked were of little help. When we did find the general direction it was a huge climb out on a narrow but very busy road with impatient drivers. I stacked it at one point and got a few cuts and bruises, but nothing major.
We ended up reaching the border a little out of our way but heading in the right direction. By then it was time to pack it in so we found a campground on the Italian side. The hard gravel pitch was a disappointment after all the nice Slovenian campsites.
Our side trip to Italy was shortlived and not so fun, but eventful.
May 25th audio update
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Distance: 78km
Cycled Kranjska Gora to Volarje
24th May 2008
This was the big day - over the Julian Alps through the Vršič pass. It was a sunny morning which was great for the views. It's about a 13km ride to the top of the pass (1611m). It's a steep road made a little harder by the hairpin bends being cobblestone. Each one has a numbered blue sign with the altitude. There are something like 24 to the top. Along the way there are huts, hikers, and some of the best views around.
The way down was very fast and fun, and with even better views. At the foot of the mountains we met up with the Soča river which we followed most of the day. At it's best the Soča is supposed to be a bright emerald green. It was quite cloudy for us, but still a beautiful green. In fact the whole day there was very little that couldn't be described as beautiful, including the place where we had lunch by a footbridge over the river.
We stayed the night in Camping Vili, which was a highlight in itself. It was right beside the river and Vili himself was a very talkative and energetic character. He also cooked a good dinner of trout and allowed us to dry our shoes in their house. Basically it was a very homely and welcoming camp ground.
I had been looking forward to this part of the trip and it exceeded my expecations.
May 24th audio update
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Distance: 45km
Cycled Bled to Kranjska Gora
23rd May 2008
Yet another rainy day, but an easy ride. There was a rise leaving Bled, but from then on it was an easy day. Around Mojstrana a proper bike track off the main road began. It started off as a rough gravel road, but eventually became a fantastic sealed road that went all the way to Kranjska Gora and beyond. At one point the clouds retreated a little revealing the view of the Julian Alps, which was quite impressive. The road goes alongside Triglav National Park and is fairly flat. Great views and an easy ride.
Although we made it Kranjska Gora fairly early, we were soaked and it seemed a good idea to leave the crossing of the alps until the next day. We checked into a guest house and went for a side trip to near the Italian border. It really is a fantastic place for cycling. A bunch of very good bike tracks around the foot of the alps.
May 23rd audio update
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Distance: 25km
Train Ljubljana to Bled
21st and 22nd May 2008
It didn't look like there was anything interesting between Ljubljana and Bled and the weather was still bad so we took the train. There was a short 5km ride or so from the station to the town and the campground. Bled is incredibly touristy, but with good reason. Bled lake is quite small and very photogenic, with it's island and castle. There are also a lot of adventure activities like canyoning and white water rafting.
On the first day we had a few drinks and chilled at the campground. In the evening I went for a bike ride up a nearby very steep dirt road that went for about 5km before opening out to a very peaceful meadow with a few buildings. It was a very rough track and more suited to a properly equipped mountain bike than the 1.75" slicks I was using. The ride back down was still very fun though.
On the second day we visited Vintgar Gorge a short distance away from Bled. It's a lovely narrow gorge with a walkway following along the rapids, ending at a waterfall. Afterwards we went white water rafting on the Sava river. It was far from extreme, but fun nonetheless.
Bled was perfect for a relaxing escape from riding in the rain. The lake was beautiful and the campground was one of the best we visited.
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Distance: 20km
Cycled Varpolje to Polzela
Train Polzela to Ljubljana
20th May 2008
Our original plan for this days ride was to ride the 45km or so to a campground at Kamnik and perhaps beyond to Ljubljana, but it was such a dreary wet day that we changed our plans and headed towards the safety of the nearer train lines around šempeter.
We only made it a short distance before we gave up and caught the train from I think Polzela. Catching the trains at this time of year was pretty easy because there weren't too many people. I understand it can be difficult with bicycles sometimes though, as it's entirely up to the conductors whether or not you can take them on. The first train was memorable because of the duck noises it's horn made as it went past the villages.
In Ljubljana we again opted for a guest house near the station. It's a very nice old town with a great castle, but nevertheless I would have been happy to skip it if we hadn't taken the train.
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